2¢ rose, deep rose, carmine rose
TYPE I
Subject: George Washington
Printing Method: Flat Plate (see below)
Perforations: Imperforate
Watermark: unwatermarked
Scott #: 482
Issued: December 8th, 1916
Used
25¢
No postmark with gum (MH)
$1
Full perfect gum, no postmark
no trace of stamp hinge mark (MNH)
$2.50 - $5
#482 was issued with the following plate #'s
Number only
7322-93
7699
7729-30, 60, 62, 80-81, 83-84, 92
7800-02, 05-09, 16-19
7942, 7945-47, 85
8011-12, 14, 18, 22-26, 67, 69-70
8501-35- 37, 50
8870-86
9168-69, 72-73, 91-92
9231-39
9420-45, 48, 55-56
10240-67, 72
10304 05, 13-14, 79, 92-93, 98
10419-25, 26, 28-29
10577-79, 85, 93-94
12963-81
13207-09, 27
13669-72, 83
13728
13884-87
The primary purpose of imperforate stamps was for private perforation companies. These companies sold the stamps via stamp machines. To make the stamps easily separable when extracted from the machine the company's perforated the stamps with their own perforations. By the time of the printing of this stamp there was only one company still perforating the imperf stamp, that being the Schermack company. The bureau had printed way more than were needed and for the next ten years the majority of these stamps were sold to stamp collectors, in full sheets no less.
The origin of this roulette is that their was a quantity of imperforate sheets of this 1¢ stamp left at a Pittsburgh bank as collateral for a loan, which subsequently defaulted in 1929. After the default a Mr. J.H. Wilson applied a roulette to the said sheets in order that they could be sold as postage to local businesses to recoup the losses incurred by the bank. Also seen on the 1¢ (#481)
A dress makers tracing wheel, tracing wheels were used for perforating the Wilson roulette.
The most desirable example of this inexpensive stamp is the centreline block, shown above. The stamp came in sheets of 400, and those sheets were separated into 4 panes of 100. There is a guide line between each pane and where the four panes meet, in the center, you find the centreline block. Value about $22.50
TYPE I, Ia and II
There is but a single shading line in the top fold of the ribbon at the left.
TYPE III
There are two shading lines in the top fold of the ribbon at the left.
TYPE I, Ia and II
There is but a single shading line in the bottom fold of the ribbon at the right.
TYPE III
There are two shading lines in the bottom fold of the ribbon at the right
TYPE I and Ia
The first shading line after the first ribbon fold of the right ribbon often appears as a single, unbroken line. At times there maybe one or two indistinct breaks. The bottom third of the line often appears stronger
TYPE II and III
The first shading line after the first ribbon fold of the right ribbon usually appears as a series of three dashes
TYPE I
The outline of the toga button is thin and sometimes broken
TYPE Ia
The outline of the toga button is stronger than the other types
TYPE II and III
The outline of the toga button is complete and fairly strong
TYPE I and Ia
The lock of hair on Washington's cheek will show only a faint, often broken, vertical line along its left edge. It will be slightly stronger on type Ia, but not as strong as type II and III
TYPE II
The lock of hair on Washington's cheek will show a distinct vertical line along its left edge, joining at least four of the horizontally engraved lines of the cheek
TYPE III
The lock of hair on Washington's cheek will show a distinct vertical line along its left edge, joining at least five of the horizontally engraved lines of the cheek
TYPE I
The dark line forming the mouth is almost straight or may even curve slightly upward at the corner of the mouth
TYPE Ia
The dark line forming the mouth is a strong straight line with a downward stroke at the corner of the mouth
TYPE II
The dark line forming the mouth is crooked
TYPE III
The dark line forming the right end of the mouth is crooked and it also dips down
TYPE I and Ia
Directly below the ear there are several shading lines which are clearly severed, resulting in the appearance of a thin, white, vertical line
TYPE II
Directly below the ear there are several shading lines which are severed, and the breaks are narrower than those of the type I stamp. Thus the impression is of a thinner and shorter white line, although certainly more pronounced than the type III design.
TYPE III
Directly below the ear the shading lines have been closed up to such a point, that the thin white line visible in type I, Ia and type II designs has all but dissapeared.
TYPE I and Ia
The two lines shading the hair at the top of the ponytail, directly behind the ear are of unequal length
TYPE II
The two lines shading the hair at the top of the ponytail, directly behind the ear are approximately the same length, the bottom one being very slightly shorter
TYPE III
The two lines shading the hair at the top of the ponytail, directly behind the ear are approximately the same length, the top one can be slightly longer
As the curved plates of the Rotary press made the stamps slightly larger it is relatively easy to discern which stamp is flat plate and which is a rotary press stamp. First select any perf Washington Franklin stamp or the first issue Washington Franklin 1 cent or 2 cent. These are the stamps with the numbers one and two spelt out, instead of numbers being displayed. I chose the latter alternative as shown in the first image above.
Then cut out squares at each corner. As shown in the second image above. Placing the stamp you wish to test under your cut out stamp you can see if the frame lines match. If, as in the last image shown above the frame lines are outside the top stamp in either the top, bottom or sides then you have a rotary stamp. If the lines are in the same place, as shown in the third image, you have a flat plate stamp.
This test works with any value stamp.
The image above left is a perfect example of the reverse of a flat plate stamp. The flecks of green ink on the reverse can be found on flat plate and are very rare on rotary press stamps. The cause of the flecks of green ink is that during the flat plate process the sheets were placed on top of each other before the ink had a chance to dry properly.